At Lucien, the always crowded art-world-adjacent French restaurant in the East Village, there is a long table right next to the curb that did not exist until Thanksgiving 2021, which is when the publicist Kaitlin Phillips decided that it must.
“It’s Table 0,” she explained one night as she flitted from spot to spot, lap to lap, finishing her friends’ steaks and pouring from a steroidal, Instagram-friendly jeroboam of champagne. “They can never tell me they don’t have a table for me because technically, this table doesn’t even exist.”
Oh, but it does. On a recent Friday it was crowded with a smoking, drinking, carefully curated crowd that included the musician Dev Hynes; David Velasco, the editor in chief of Artforum; the cult comic Lauren Servideo; the artist Sarah Morris; and the doorman from the club Paul’s Casablanca, who looks like a skinnier version of the photographer Mario Sorrenti: same glasses, same hair.